Toyota Starlet EP91
Rear wheel bearings
Noisy driving
Some not so nice rumbling and metal against metal rattle could be heard from the rear of the car while driving.
I
it had for some time started increasing in severity, rocking the car sideways made it very
noticeable that some excessive play started to show.
Setting up
Good to have is a proper car lift, but I do not have one.
Up on ramps and jack the rear end.
Flying Starlet.
Handbrake cables were replaced at the same time.
First removal of the grease cap and the old cotter pin(do not reuse).
On the bench, remove the old seal.
Remove the old seal.
The seal were old and crusty, a lot of brake dust has mixed in with the grease.
Remove seals
new seals are needed, take note of the oriention so that the inner spring does not end up on the wrong side.
Pretty bad shape.
Outer bearing race
Fastened with a press fit, they can easily be punched out due to the drum having groove prepped for that occasion.
Removal of the majority of grease is done with screwdriver and paper
Grease removal.
On the drum, outer race goes first, and then the inner one.
There are slots prepared for access.
Punch out the races.
One remover, removal of second.
Install races
New ones need to be tapped in, the old ones have the correct
diameter that can aid in the installation, first they need to be slightly adjusted so they dont get stuck.
Outer edges ground down.
Clean and add a light coating of grease on the bearing seats before inserting the new outer race.
Place old outer race on the new one and then gently symmetrically
tap it in until it bottoms out.
Modded old on new.
Tapped in place.
New seals
Repeat process fro both sides.
I replaced the bearing on left and right wheel.
The new oil seal ara tappet in with a suitable socket.
Make sure the orientation for the spring is correct as not to be
pushed out of its groove by the rear wheel shaft.
Forgot to take a picture...
In this video it can be seen where the lip needs to be:
Bearing adjustment
The new bearings cages should be packed with grease and massaged
and the caviry between the inner and outer race seats filled to 1/3 with grease, too much is not goodbecause it will be forced oute with heat and pressure while driving.
Packed with grease.
Wheel bearings Stage 1: 22 Nm
-First stage is applied while rotating the wheel or drum
Wheel bearings Stage 2: 10 Nm (preload)
-Back of the nut gently and apply preload.
Now the locking cap and cotter pin can be installed.
New cotter pin.
Final
Was there any need of replacing them?
Just as well, it was starting to show signs of wear and the seal for the rear of the bearing had started to leak in brakedust.
-20251124
Torque values list
Wheel bearings Stage 1: 22 Nm
Wheel bearings Stage 2: 10 Nm (preload)
Wheels lugs: 103 Nm -tighten again after 5km